How to choose a knife for Self Defense.

Before I start I would like to say one thing and suggest three others. First, I would like to say that this post is primarily meant to be an interesting read and to "show off" how much thought and research I've put into it for fun. In no way should it be considered as my condonation of fighting with knives (read: "knife dueling") or using a knife on another person in any way other than in the gravest of life threatening extremes.

Secondly I would like to suggest that you research the knife laws where you live (you can start here), read an article called "The Myth of Proportional Armament" by a guy named "SouthNarc", and as has apparently become my habit to suggest, see what Marc "Animal" MacYoung has to say on the subject of using knives. Most of what I have written here is drawn from what they have to say on the subject, along with my own experience of applying it.

Now for the good stuff...

As I am a "Gadget Guy" I am also a "Knife Nut". I don't know why I like knives and I certainly hope that it is not indicative of a flawed character (because there are a lot of us out there ;-).

Being a Knife Nut and also having an interest in self defense, I have spent a lot of time researching knives for self defense and I have developed a few opinions on what to look for.

A knife is a "force multiplier". This means that it is meant to make the job of defending yourself or, heaven forbid, attacking and killing someone, easier than if you didn't have one at all. However, even if you carry a knife, unless you see an attack coming (and perhaps not even then), you may not have time to get the thing into action. With this in mind I have developed a couple of criteria that I filter my selection of a self defense knife though. They are a) accessing and deploying a knife under duress, and b) training to access and deploy a knife under duress.

The first of my criteria for choosing a knife involves finding one that can be carried in such a way that makes it easily accessible when you need it, and has a shape and method of opening it that is conducive to actually getting it out and into play once you have accessed it. It also involves how you use the knife once it is deployed.

In regard to this, when I consider buying a knife, I first look at whether it could be initially deployed as an impact weapon before it is opened, and secondly, I look at whether it can be utilized in a reverse edge method. Although I have (thankfully) never really had to use a knife against someone and this is mostly all theory, I have practiced scenarios and knife sparred a lot. In training, when someone is on top of me before I have a chance to gain space and put distance between me and them, I tend to start by first slashing at incoming limbs (defanging the snake) and then try to bury the knife into someones gut as I draw the knife upward. This is a variation on one of the methods (tsuki-waza) that the Japanese taught the use of the tanto (tanto-jitsu) and I think that this does the most damage under those circumstances.

In regard to how a knife is carried there are really only two ways to do so (and a few variations on those) depending largely on whether the knife is a fixed or a folder.

If the knife is fixed (meaning that it was made all in one piece and does not fold), the only real carry option is in a sheath on a belt at your waist, if you are to carry it unconcealed, and so as a rule, legally. Although this is probably the best way to carry a knife in terms of how quickly it can be accessed, carrying a knife like this can be, and usually is, conspicuous and not always appropriate.

If the knife is a folder, the best way to carry it is clipped in your pocket, as is now quite common and in most cases legal, because it is in plain sight and not considered concealed. Most knives that can be carried in this manner are commonly referred to as "tactical folding knives".

As far as a knife's method of opening in concerned, most "tactical" folders generally have one of three ways to accomplish this. The first, and most commonly found, is the thumb hole (first copyrighted and popularized by Spyderco Knives), the thumb stud (as is commonly found on Chris Reeve's "Sebenza" knives), and the thumb disk (as popularized by and is common on Emerson knives). Opening these knives is usually a simple case of finding the hole, stud, or disk with your thumb and simultaneously pushing up with your thumb and "flicking" your wrist. This is usually simple and effective, however it can take more time than you might like under duress.

The second method is the automatic mechanism (which is commonly called a "switchblade"). I have the good fortune to live in a state that allows the unconcealed carry of automatic knives and I take full advantage of this because I have found that I have to put the least conscious thought into opening one. This is namely because all I have to do is feel for and press a button (which is a gross motor skill), rather that trying to find the above mentioned hole, stud, or disk and get my thumb into it while at the same time flicking my wrist. I have found that attempting this under stress can fail (because it is a fine motor skill) and I have ended up with a half opened training knife in the heat of "battle". This means that I now have to whip my wrist a couple more times to get it into a fully open position, all while my opponent is either trying his best to hit or kick me, or hit or cut me with his own weapon, or is trying to disarm me before I get the knife open and try to return the favor.

The third method is sort of a combination of the above two and is commonly referd to as a assisted opening mechanism. Although I don't think it was invented by him, Hawaii based knife maker Ken Onion has done a lot to popularize them by designing knives for Kershaw and Zero Tolerance Knives. Assisted opening knives are nice because they are, as a rule, gross motor skill in nature to open, and are not technical switchblades and so are legal in most states.

Whichever opening method on a knife you choose will depend entirely upon what you carry and train enough with to become comfortable using and what the laws are where you live. This segues nicely into my other criteria for choosing a knife.

This involves finding one that has a training drone identical (or as close to it as possible) to the one you carry in your everyday life so that you can practice using the one you carry in everyday life (I think it was Wyatt Earp that was quoted as saying something to the effect of, "in a gunfight you do not rise to the occasion, but default to your training").

If you are not familiar with the concept of a training drone I will try to fill you in. Although I'm not sure who developed the idea in contemporary times, overall the idea is not a new one. I would be willing to bet that nearly everyone who has practiced traditional martial arts is familiar with the wooden "tanto" found in so many training halls. This was an attempt in ancient times at making a training tool that would mimic the shape, and carry and deployment attributes, of a live tanto knife.

The basic idea is that, as you must "fight how you train and train how you fight", you must also "fight with the knife you train with and train with the knife you fight with". This means that in your scenario training you should put yourself in environments and situations in which it might be difficult to draw your knife and get it into play, and practice doing so with your trainer. As "SouthNarc" said in his previously mentioned article, "establishing (a) grip on the tool is the most tenuous part of any drawstroke to bring any tool into play". Practicing with a training drone identical to the knife you regularly carry will go a long way to developing your comfort with, and ability to, draw your knife when the fit hits the shan.

Two of the most prevalent American production knife makers, Benchmade Knives and Spyderco Knives, make training drones for their knives and both of their corporate training programs, Cutting Edge Training through Benchmade, and Martial Blade Concepts through Spyderco, make ample use of drones. Other common knife companies that make training drones for their knives are Buck Knives, which covers their Buck/ Strider line and the Strider SmF and SnG, Blade-Tech with their M.L.E.K line, and Blackhawk! Knives in their Crucibal line, which has has the added benefit of using the same knife design for a fixed blade, a folder, and their drone. Incidentally, as I mentioned in my "self defense gadgets" post, I carry a Blackhawk! M.O.D CQD Mk I and with the exception of not having a training drone available for it, it covers all of the other requirements I have for a self defense knife.

At the very least, if you think you may ever need to use a knife in self defense, practice using an identical training drone to the knife you carry. If you want to take your training to yet another level consider some of the other knife training tools that are available such as the Virtual Blade, Shock Knife, and Stab-O-Matic.

Knives can be expensive, especially if you really get into them, so to start off I would suggest the Spyderco Delica or Endura, or the Benchmade Giptilian folder, as a good place to start in order to first get a knife and then get comfortable carrying it. The nice thing about these knives is they are only about $60 and each has a trainer. Although they are not great knives, either in quality or material, they will cut with the best of them and they are generally comfortable to use, although the Spydercos' are not really comfortable in reverse edge or impact application.

If for some reason you are not satisfied with the Delica, Endura, or Griptilian, there is a whole world of knives out there for for you to explore, just be prepared to spend some money. Although I would be willing to bet that it was quoted by a knife maker or dealer, there is a saying that goes, " don't trust you life to a hundred dollar knife". You will find out that what is considered a quality knife rarely sells for under $150.

If you can spend this much I would suggest that you start by looking at Emerson Knives . I like the CQC-7 (I really like the Super CQC-7), CQC-8, and Blackbird models as they are all comfortable in the hand while being used as pre-opened impact device, although only the CQC-7 and Blackbird models are really comfortable being used in the reverse edge method. Emerson is one of the few companies to make trainers for more than one or two of their knives and although they only makes knives that open by the hole, disk, and their own "wave" method, they are solid knives. If you find one that you like you can't go wrong buying one.

Ernie Emerson has been a force to be reckoned with in the knife industry for more than two decades and pioneered (if not invented) the concept of the "tactical folder". His were the "go to" folders for Spec. Ops. shooters throughout the 90's and were popularized by Richard Marcinko in his "Rogue Warrior" books. He has gotten a little gimmicky, I think, with his "wave feature" but it doesn't really get in the way, works well under certain circumstances, and it does have a certain "cool factor".

Along with Emerson, the above mentioned Benchmade Knives, Spyderco Knives, and Kershaw Knives all make higher end production knives and can provide a good place to start in you're own research into what makes a good "self defense" knife. Also take the time to check out KnifeArt.com, E.D.C. Knives, and T.A.D. Gear.

Last but not least, I would like to point out that no matter what knife you choose to carry for self defense and how you train to use it, statistically most knife related assaults accure within the context of domestic violence and the type of knife most regularly used is a common kitchen knife.

If you found this article to be helpful, please let me know.